Happy Historic International Cat Day

Here at Triskele Heritage we love a cat! The office is often home to our three black rescue cats, but we’re always on the lookout for cats at historic sites too. We’d like to celebrate International Cat Day (8 August) with a post about these archaeologically-inclined felines…

The Triskele Heritage cats – Spike, Puddle & Pippin

Cats have been constant companions for humans in the historic built environment for many centuries. Evidence for this comes from documentary references, manuscript illustrations and even from graffiti. A particularly famous example can be found on one of the nave pillars at St Albans Cathedral in Hertfordshire. It is probably mediaeval in date – from when the building was a Benedictine abbey – and features an anatomically accurate cat caught midway through, what can only be described as, intimate grooming…

Mediaeval graffito of a cat washing itself, St Albans Abbey, Hertfordshire

Such a graffito may have been carved by one of the monks or perhaps a visitor to the site. It represents an observation of the contemporary life at the cathedral in the mediaeval period. That world would have included cats who would have been encouraged to roam about the building to help keep down the rodent population.

Evidence of ratters and mousers comes from holes which were sometimes incorporated in ancient doors. The most famous of these can be found at Exeter Cathedral in Devon. A door has been altered to allow cats to enter the staircase leading up to a mediaeval clock – perhaps the cathedral’s rodents had been playing merry hell with the ropes of the mechanism!

Cat hole at Exeter Cathedral

In the fifteenth century there was even a cat on Exeter Cathedral’s payroll – earning a penny a week! A graffito at Southwell Minster in Nottinghamshire graphically shows exactly what it was that the cathedral cats were expected to hunt…

Graffito of a rat or mouse at Southwell Minster

It would seem that it was not just the cathedrals which employed cats. Rats and mice were to be found everywhere in mediaeval England and folk were keen to try and protect their homes. This was the case even at the top end of society. The bishop of Lincoln’s residence at Lyddington in Rutland has a cat hole cut through the bottom of a door in the bishop’s own private quarters to allow access by the all-important cats.

Cat hole at Lyddington

We recently recorded a similar historic cat hole in a private house in Worcestershire. Cats are still very much to be found in the historic built environment. The most famous of these was probably, the recently deceased, Doorkins Magnificat (R.I.P.) who was taken in by the community at Southwark Cathedral in south London. She had her work cut out chasing the rodents as the site is bounded by the River Thames on one side and Borough Market on the other! Most of the time she could be found snoozing in various warm spots around the building though.

Doorkins Magnificat snoozing at Southwark Cathedral

We’ve encountered many other cats at historic properties including Old Wardour Castle (Wiltshire), Tattershall Castle (Lincolnshire) and Wells Cathedral (Somerset). It’s always a great moment in every site visit to meet a feline who lives and works at these heritage properties and well worth taking a moment to spend some time with them.

James Wright of Triskele Heritage making a new friend at Old Wardour Castle
Pipsy stalking the Inner Ward bridge at Tattershall Castle
Pangur the Wells Cathedral cat

So, on International Cat Day, we salute the felines who inhabit our historic monuments!

UK Heritage Under Attack – A Statement of Solidarity

Triskele Heritage are increasingly concerned by the actions of the Conservative government which are having a gravely adverse effect on the conservation of this country.  Heritage organisations across the UK are under a sustained ideological attack. This is not a hyperbolic statement. The reported actions of the Conservative government speak for themselves.

Government Policy Leading to Departmental Closures

During 2021 the following decisions have been made:

19 January: Conservative government announcement that STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering & Mathematics) subjects will receive priority funding at UK universities (Please note: we are supportive of due and proper funding of university departments. We are not, however, supportive of that funding coming at the expense of other departments).

26 March: A further Conservative government announcement indicates: ‘A reduction by half to high-cost subject funding for other price group C1 subjects – that is, for courses in performing and creative arts, media studies and archaeology.’

1 April: Staff at the University of Chester were put on notice of the closure of the Department of Archaeology.

15 April: London South Bank University announces the immediate closure of its history department.

16 April: It is reported that Aston University is considering the closure of its History, Language and Translation Department.

Friday 21 May: Reports began to emerge that the University of Sheffield were considering the fate of the Department of Archaeology.

Wednesday 26 May: Dr Hugh Willmott of the Department of Archaeology at the University of Sheffield announced that the executive board of the university had decided to close the department.

Whilst acknowledging that universities are independent and autonomous entities, the UK government directly provides approximately 18% of departmental budgets and 66% of research funding. The proposed cuts send a clear and chilling message to university administrators – heritage is no longer a priority. It is hard to conclude anything other than the Conservative government have made a deliberate decision to defund the formal study of history and archaeology in the UK.

Government Interference with Museum Appointments

Conservative government decisions appear to have been made on ideological grounds as they continue to further embroil themselves in what has been criticised as a ‘culture war’. Conservative ministers have recently intervened to stifle dissenting voices from the world of UK heritage through a demand that trustees of museums sign a pledge to support the government’s view on contentious histories such as Britain’s slavery legacies:

27 September 2020: It was reported that Conservative government minister Oliver Dowden threatened the funding of UK museums who remove or reinterpret controversial artefacts.

1 May 2021: It was reported that the reappointment, as trustee of the National Maritime Museum, of Dr Aminul Hoque – a researcher who has called for the ‘decolonising of the curriculum’  – was blocked by Conservative government minister Oliver Dowden.

6 May 2021: Reports emerged that Dr Sarah Dry withdrew from her appointment to the Science Museums Group after the Conservative government demanded a pledge of loyalty to its own position on ‘contested heritage’.

Government Attitudes to Conservation

For an organisation named the “Conservatives” the current government seem to have a very high-handed and combative attitude towards the values of conservation. This pattern of behaviour includes (but is not limited to) significant cuts to local authority budgets which led to the redundancy of many heritage workers, controversy over significant damage to heritage assets caused by the High Speed 2 rail project and the Conservative Prime Minister’s pledge to cut conservation mitigation in favour of developers. In his own words: ‘Newt-counting delays are a massive drag on the prosperity of this country.’ This is a deeply worrying and inaccurate attitude.

Triskele Heritage remain vehemently opposed to this sustained attack on UK heritage. The Conservative government does not seem to have meaningful understanding, consideration or respect for archaeology, history or conservation. Their actions are tremendously short-sighted and are having an enormously negative impact on this country.

The Conservative government’s continuing inability to engage in honest dialogue over the contested histories of Britain’s slave legacies is deeply at odds with the attitudes of the general public and the wider world. Equally, voters are very much turned off when they find their conservation concerns trampled on by developers given free reign by the government.  The part which heritage plays in national life is of supreme significance and is being deliberately overlooked and defunded by the Conservative government on ideological grounds.

Value of Heritage

Here are some facts and figures as to why the Conservative government urgently needs to row back on its current trend of attacking UK heritage:

  • There are 58.6 million individual visits to heritage sites and 73% of adults resident in the country visit at least one such location in a 12 month period.
  • There are 134,000 jobs in built heritage tourism alone which produce £5.1 billion annual output. Overall there are 328, 700 people employed in the heritage workforce.
  • Heritage tourism is worth some £20.2 billion per annum to the nation. Trained archaeologists, historians and conservators are key to the health of this financial ecosystem.
  • Four of the world’s top 10 ranked archaeology departments are based in the UK.
  • Employer demand for qualified UK archaeological practitioners is both high and growing to the extent that the Conservative government themselves have included the profession on its own shortage occupations list.
  • Heritage and culture has been identified by the government as being an essential asset to the mental wellbeing of the nation

The continued attacks by the Conservative government on heritage organisations are already having a deleterious effect on the health, social, cultural and economic well-being of the nation. It must cease and the trend reversed with immediate effect.

Triskele Heritage stand in full solidarity with our friends and colleagues effected by these appalling decisions made by the Conservative government.  

James Wright FSA
Director – Triskele Heritage

Banksy, Graffiti and Archaeology

The Power of Graffiti: Ancient and Modern

The people of Nottingham have reacted with a tangible sense of excitement to the news that, the world-renowned graffiti street artist, Banksy has chosen a brick wall in the suburb of Lenton to place a new installation.

My adopted hometown has had a fair bit of bad press recently given the collapse of INTU mid-way through their redevelopment of the Broadmarsh shopping centre and the spike in covid-19 cases which has led to Tier 2 restrictions. So, it has been a real pleasure to see the city brought into the light through this artwork on the corner of Illkeston Road and Rothesay Avenue.

The new installation features a stencilled spray-painted little girl, aged maybe 7 or 8, arms outstretched in balance as she hoola-hoops a bike tyre. Adjacent to her is a bicycle padlocked to a street sign with a mangled front wheel and a missing back tyre.

In these grim days, it is incredible to see such a diverse number of people getting excited by art. And I do mean diverse – when I was down at the site there were around one hundred (socially distanced) folk queueing up to take photos and they accurately represented Nottingham’s vibrant multi-racial and multi-cultural community.

Nottingham residents gather to celebrate their new Banksy in Lenton

So, why might an archaeologist be interested in such a modern phenomenon?

Firstly, it is important to state that archaeology is a subject as big as humanity itself. Whatever you are interested in there will be a historical material culture which can be studied archaeologically. I happen to be a buildings archaeologist and part of my job is looking at graffiti which adorns those buildings. It’s true that I can more usually be found squinting at mediaeval graffiti by the light of a torch in a parish church, but there are some deep-seated connections between the work of Banksy and that of mostly unknown folk from the past.

Recording graffiti at St James’, Aslackby, Lincolnshire (Picture: Lesley Harmer)

Historic graffiti is a very important window onto the past and offers us a dynamic social document as important as anything which could be found in an archive or museum. Prior to the more widespread adoption of literacy during the seventeenth century, graffiti tended to be pictorial. It was created by people of all social backgrounds and is a vital piece of evidence for understanding the everyday lives of ordinary people, many of whom would not leave us any traces of their lives without their graffiti. By learning to “read” those inscriptions we can learn something of their psychologies and emotions… and mostly they speak of their hopes and fears.

Ship graffiti from Norwich Cathedral

Hope might be represented by the carving of a beautiful ship onto the walls of Norwich Cathedral (Norfolk) – perhaps a prayer in stone by a merchant or sailor wishing for their ship to dock safely. Fear can be seen in the ritual protection marks recorded at the Tower of London which were intended to drive away the threat of evil from the building and its occupants. I have recorded graffiti in buildings all over the country from tiny cottages up to the largest cathedrals. What is apparent is that people used the walls as venues to speak of their concerns in life – the graffiti acts as a representation of what was important to them in and of the specific moment of their creation.

Recording graffiti at the Tower of London (Picture: MOLA / Andy Chopping)

Banksy’s graffiti in Lenton does just this and is a very playful and thought-provoking piece. It is located near to the former factories owned by Raleigh, which manufactured bikes locally from 1886 until closure in 2002. The surrounding streets were once home to many of the factory workers. Famously, the principal character in Alan Sillitoe’s novel Saturday Night and Sunday Morning, Arthur Seaton, lived, worked, drank and loved in these streets. Nowadays the area is popular with students as an ideal place to live midway between town and the University of Nottingham. The graffiti speaks of the former workers at the bike factory – notably the bike in the piece is as broken as the economy after the factories closed. The work also reflects the tenacious families who continue to cling to the area despite its grim realities and the hoola-hoop tyre seems to point to an improvised make-and-mend attitude to just keep-on-keeping on. The idea of play is also a burlesque on the later reality of Lenton as a bit of a party town for students. I’m not sure that the subject matter would really work if it were presented anywhere other than these streets.

Nottingham City Council are certainly aware of the cultural cache which Banksy potentially brings to an area. Even before the artist formally acknowledged the piece via his Instagram, the local authority had installed a plastic screen to protect it. A security guard is also diligently watching over the piece. After all, Banksy’s street installations can fetch extremely high prices – in 2014 his iconic Kissing Coppers (originally from Trafalgar Street in Brighton) went for $575,000 (£345,000) at auction. The screen in Lenton may have been extremely foresighted as not long after it was fitted the wall was tagged by another graffiti artist. It was later cleaned by local residents.

There is an irony here. Firstly, it is a very widely acknowledged cultural observation that graffiti begets other graffiti. The presence of a piece of graffiti seems to act as a magnet for other pieces to be added around and over older inscriptions. This is the case both with historic graffiti and with its modern counterparts. It has already taken place in Lenton, not only with the tag, but also through the work of one wit whom has thought to make a comment on Banksy’s stencil technique by placing the phrase “MASS PRODUCED” in orange letters adjacent to the installation.

“MASS PRODUCED” painted next to the Nottingham Banksy

Secondly, graffiti is, by nature, a fleeting and temporary form of art. It seems unlikely that those who scribed on the walls of mediaeval buildings thought that they were creating something that would intrigue later generations or be studied by archaeologists such as myself. Instead, graffiti speaks of the contemporary moment within the mind of an individual in a particular location. Protecting or removing the piece for posterity has the potential to culturally devalue it.

Thirdly, Nottingham has gone wild for this piece (and quite rightly so). There was a real festival atmosphere on Illkeston Road. What would otherwise be a perfectly ordinary suburban arterial road has been briefly transformed into a cultural destination that is really drawing in the (socially distanced) crowds. The line of folk was slightly reminiscent of the queues to see world famous pieces of historic art such as the Mona Lisa at the Louvre and I’ve seldom seen queues of people waiting to interact with art at Nottingham Contemporary or Nottingham Castle Museum and Art Gallery. This installation by Banksy has really brought a much-needed joy, zest and conversation to Nottingham’s streets.

Crowds gathering in Lenton to see the Banksy

Given that I have spent many years studying graffiti I’m both happy to see the Nottingham Banksy getting so much attention and not entirely surprised. I’ve witnessed the compulsive power that graffiti can have on people. That power takes many forms. Humour greeted the discovery of phalluses carved on Hadrian’s Wall by Romans trying to engender good luck. A sense of enigmatic mystique was created by the ritual protection marks at Knole (Kent) which were left by carpenters trying to defend James I from evil after the Gunpowder Plot of 1605. Meanwhile, there was amazement at the survival of graffiti left by the Sex Pistols in the 1970s which led to a building on Denmark Street in Soho being protected from demolition.

Graffiti is a tremendously important cultural asset in both the historic and modern eras – but there is definitely a dialogue to be had over how and why we protect it.

If this blog has perhaps piqued your interest in historic graffiti, then please do consider watching my talk on the subject…

About the author

James Wright is an award-winning buildings archaeologist. He has two decades professional experience of ferreting around in people’s cellars, hunting through their attics and digging up their gardens. He hopes to find meaningful truths about how ordinary and extraordinary folk lived their lives in the mediaeval period.

He welcomes contact through Twitter or email.

Heritage Open Days Documentary – Kelham

With us all unable to poke around inside normally private houses as part of Heritage Open Days 2020, many organisations have opted for digital content this year. Our own modest offering is a short documentary for Inspire on a house at Kelham, near Newark, Nottinghamshire. We surveyed the property as part of the Kelham Revealed project alongside our friends and colleagues at MB Archaeology in 2019. Conventionally dated to the seventeenth century, but containing all manner of mediaeval surprises within…

Virtual Site Visits

I’m attempting to bring a little positivity to our collective self-isolation by recalling some of my site visits over the last 20+ years as an archaeologist.

I’ll be uploading a post every single day to the Triskele Heritage website and also Tweeting from @jpwarchaeology using #VirtualSiteVisit– come join me on the ride…

Day 76, 31 May 2020
Warkworth Castle, Northumberland
A few weeks back we had St Lawrence’s church in Warkworth for #VirtualSiteVisit today we have gone for the building that has rightfully put this Northumbrian village on the map. The Percy marcher lords added a great tower to the castle at a debatable date. Some have argued that the structure was erected as early as the mid-fourteenth century or as late as the mid-sixteenth century. Personally, I would opt for the 1390s.
Days 72-75, Wednesday 27 – Saturday 30 May 2020
Dyffryn, Glamorgan; Winchester City Mill, Hampshire; The Vyne, Hampshire & Knole, Kent
I’ve been a tad lax with #VirtualSiteVisit this week. Mainly due to impending parenthood I have been taking it easy and enjoying some downtime. To get back in the saddle, I thought it a good idea to group together four sites owned by the National Trust. I’ve worked on several NT properties over the years and they are always brilliant clients who allow such privileged access to some of the most incredible buildings in the land. Here we have Dyffryn – the most recent site I have worked on, Winchester City Mill – where we got sore necks recording the floor frames from below, The Vyne – where I was amazed to discover that the roof is almost entirely built from re-used timbers and Knole… the building with the most complicated archaeology in England!
Day 71, Tuesday 26 May 2020
Creswell Crags, Nottinghamshire/Derbyshire
The Millward Brook marks the boundary between Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire, so both counties can lay claim to Creswell Crags. Renowned as the location of the only prehistoric cave art in Britain and the most northerly example in Europe, this limestone gorge was a focus of occupation through the Ice Age and beyond. It was also the findspot, in 1876, of a bone carving known as the Ochre Horse, a piece of portable artwork dated to around 10,000BC.
Day 70, Monday 25 May 2020
St Mary’s Guildhall, Boston, Lincolnshire
I do a surprisingly large amount of work in Boston. Most people know the ‘Stump’ – the parish church that is visible for dozens of miles in the fenland landscape. However, the real pride of the town has got to be this hidden gem. A mediaeval brick and stone guildhall built in the 1390s and still housing its stunning crown-post timber-framed roof.
Day 69, Sunday 24 May 2020
Queen’s House, Tower of London
I took this detail whilst surveying the Queen’s House in 2015. It shows a mortise and tenon joint in cutaway as a result of conservation work to the timber. The simplest and sturdiest method of connecting two pieces of wood in a building. Been used for centuries. The timbers in this #VirtualSiteVisit were felled in 1538-9 and were built into the accommodation for the Lieutenant of the Tower on the orders of Thomas Cromwell in 1540. It was almost the very last thing he commissioned before his arrest and execution.
Day 68, Saturday 23 May 2020
Buckden Towers, Cambridgeshire
Right at the close of the fifteenth century the bishop of Lincoln commissioned this extraordinary piece of architecture in the Cambridgeshire fens. Buckden was a palatial residence for the clergy, but the great tower was essentially a miniature version of an older secular fenland site, to the north, at Tattershall. Really clear example of how existing buildings influenced mediaeval builders.
Day 67, Friday 22 May 2020
Nine Stones Close, Derbyshire
Derbyshire’s tallest manmade standing stones are a tad anomalous – there are now only four Bronze Age stones at Nine Stones Close and antiquarian Thomas Bateman only recorded seven when he excavated the site in the mid-nineteenth century! However, this #VirtualSiteVisit located between Stanton Moor and Youlgreave is a well-known place – particularly to walkers and film-buffs as the outcrop in the background famously appeared as a location in the cult movie The Princess Bride.
Day 66, Thursday 21 May 2020
Newark Castle, Nottinghamshire
In a cheeky callback to yesterday’s #VirtualSiteVisit there is also dirty great latrine shaft visible in today’s trip to Newark as well. This is the gatehouse built for Alexander the Magnificent, bishop of Lincoln, in the 1130s. It is also very possibly the specific location where King John died of dysentery in 1216. Those garderobes may well have come in handy that year…
Day 65, Wednesday 20 May 20202
Bolingbroke Castle, Lincolnshire
Everyone loves a good garderobe, right? RIGHT! Well this splendid example of a latrine shaft can be found at the Kitchen Tower of Bolingbroke Castle. Famous as the birthplace of Henry IV, this castle was originally built for Ranulf de Blondeville, earl of Chester, Lincoln and Leicester in the 1220s. It is one of the first castles in England to be built without the architectural focus of a great tower, probably as a result of designs that de Blondeville had seen whilst fighting in France and the Holy Land. Instead it consists of a circuit of curtain wall studded with incredibly strong D-shaped towers.
Day 64, Tuesday 19 May 2020
Bayleaf, Weald and Downland Museum, West Sussex (formerly Chiddingstone, Kent)
It may have come to your attention by now that I have a bit of a ‘thing’ for fifteenth century buildings. This #VirtualSiteVisit is ultimately one of my absolute favourites – Bayleaf, originally from Chiddingstone (Kent) but moved in 1968 to make way for the Bough Beech Reservoir. It was brought to the Weald and Downland Museum where it became the core of their collection. Built in the early fifteenth century (dendrochronology dating is 1405-30) this is a classic Wealden house with entry passage, services, hall (double-height open to the roof) and parlour downstairs and bedchambers upstairs. If I could ever afford to live in a historic property it would be one very much like this.
Day 63, Monday 18 May 2020
Bridge Inn, Topsham, Devon
There have been precious few pubs in these #VirtualSiteVisits – perhaps an unconscious decision as we all collectively mourn their closure during lockdown? Anyway, I was thinking about coastal pubs whilst hunting for examples which claim to have the inevitable legend of ships timbers in them for my new book. The Bridge at Topsham is mostly an eighteenth century cob and stone building, but does have the dubious honour of claiming to be the first ever pub that Elizabeth II ever officially visited – in 1998. What HAD she been wasting her time doing previously?
Day 62, Sunday 17 May 2020
Redemore, Leicestershire
After some phenomenal archaeological survey work by Glenn Foard and the Battlefields Trust, the location of the battle of Bosworth was finally pinpointed within the landscape. Its odd to think that a figure as huge in English history as Richard III probably died somewhere within this #VirtualSiteVisit The view is looking back towards Ambion Hill from where Richard and his bodyguard charged in their attempt to kill Henry Tudor.
Day 61, Saturday 16 May 2020
Gainsborough Old Hall, Lincolnshire
One of the most important mediaeval buildings in the east midlands (and beyond) due to just how intact and untouched it is, Gainsborough Old Hall is a hidden gem. Built in the 1460s for a royal councillor by the name of Sir Thomas Burgh, the great hall has a magnificent arch-braced roof. In this #VirtualSiteVisit we’re looking from a observation window in the solar block back down towards the services.
Day 60, Friday 15 May 2020
Broadmarsh Tannery, Nottingham
Spent a bit of this evening writing about subterranean Nottingham, so for #VirtualSiteVisit we’re staying super local to home for me. The city is known for having literally hundreds of manmade underground chambers cut into the bedrock. In the ninth century a Welsh monk called Asser even referred to the settlement as Tig Guocobauc (House of Caves). This is the remains of a mediaeval tannery which was cut into the cliff under what is now the Broadmarsh chopping centre. It was still in use as late as 1639 and is now part of the City of Caves exhibition.

Day 59: Thursday 14 May 2020
Historic Graffiti from England
An alternative to the usual picture for today’s #VirtualSiteVisit – instead it is a link to the audio slideshow of the introduction to historic graffiti talk that was mentioned yesterday. This covers sites from the length and breadth of the country – enjoy!

Day 58, Wednesday 13 May 2020
St Mary’s, Happisburgh, Norfolk
Spent the day laboriously recording a version of my intro to historic graffiti talk and uploading it to Youtube. I’ll post a link eventually, but for now just want to soak up the haunting beauty of this gorgeous daisywheel graffito from Happisburgh. One of my favourite finds for this #VirtualSiteVisit
Day 57, Tuesday 12 May 2020
Strelley Hall, Nottinghamshire
I was lucky enough to be at the right place at the right time in 2006 and ended up digging an unfeasibly large hole in the grounds of Strelley Hall which went down 4.5 metres to the base of a lost mediaeval moat that stood to one side of a fortified manor house built for Sir Sampson de Strelley in the mid-fourteenth century. The moat was backfilled sometime in the late sixteenth century after the manor partially burned down. Eventually the de Strelley family were so impoverished that they had to sell the property to pay off their legal debts . The present building was constructed at the end of the eighteenth century but incorporates part of the mediaeval house within its walls.
Day 56, Monday 11 May 2020
Baddesley Clinton, Warwickshire
As the country moves into a decidedly uncertain period in the fight against the Coronavirus, we’ve taken the prudent decision to maintain social-distancing so #VirtualSiteVisit will be continuing for a good while yet. Sticking with a Warwickshire theme today and considering the lockdown led me to the moated manor house at Baddesley Clinton. Originally built in the mid-fifteenth century, the site was remodelled quite a bit during the early modern period. It is perhaps best known for its priestholes used to hide Jesuits with connections to the Powder Treason of 1605.
Day 55, Sunday 10 May 2020
22 High Street, Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwickshire
Having to play catch up this morning as I missed posting #VirtualSiteVisit yesterday due to getting lost in my writing. I’m really taken with the interaction of good quality modern buildings with the historic environment. Take a look at how the architect of the building on the right avoided the visual traps of an inappropriate brutalist design or a mediaeval pastiche. Instead, they opted for a post-modern building which referenced the roofline, gables, storey heights, jetty and bays of the late sixteenth century houses/shops to the left (themselves rebuilt after a catastrophic fire in Stratford).
Day 54: Saturday 9 May 2020
Fishponds, Colwick Woods, Nottinghamshire
Continuing to think about the history of my immediate area and what better place for a #VirtualSiteVisit than one literally on my doorstep. Colwick Woods represent the surviving vestige of the deer park attached to nearby Colwick Hall. Formerly owned by the Byron family, the current hall is a mid-eighteenth century structure but in the woods opposite lies a trace of a much older mediaeval system of fishponds created by damming a narrow valley fed by natural springs between two hills.
Day 53: Friday 8 May 2020
Ashby Castle, Leicestershire
Received word yesterday that I have been commissioned to write a book looking at persistent myths relating to mediaeval buildings. So today I started canvassing online for stories of secret underground passages – real or imagined! To say that my feed has been inundated would be an understatement. So for today’s #VirtualSiteVisit we have a shot of the tunnel connecting the great tower with the kitchens at Ashby Castle – almost certainly constructed by the Royalist garrison during the English Civil War.
Day 52: Thursday 7 May 2020
Prehistoric Animal Sculptures, Crystal Palace Park, Greater London
Some of the more unusual grade I listed structures for this #VirtualSiteVisit to Crystal Palace Park. Made from pre-cast stonework by the sculptor Benjamin Waterhouse Hawkins, to designs by the controversial palaeontologist Sir Richard Owen, the statues were created between 1852-5. Pictured are two Iguanodons, part of a collection of sculptures which represented the very first attempt to recreate what dinosaurs may have looked like. Historic England have designated them: ‘Of exceptional historic interest in a national and probably international context.’
Day 51: Wednesday 6 May 2020
Newcastle Castle, Tyne & Wear
One of my favourite castles in the country for today’s #VirtualSiteVisit – Newcastle was originally built after the Norman Conquest on the site of an Anglo-Saxon churchyard. The standing remains of the great tower (right) date from the 1168-78 rebuilding for Henry II by Maurice the Engineer and the Black Gate (left) was built in 1247-50 for Henry III. The latter was heavily remodelled as multiple slum residences in the post-mediaeval period and the whole site was divided up by the 1840s railway viaduct. Highly recommended for a visit after lockdown – the interpretation/presentation by Newcastle City Council is spot on.
Day 50: Tuesday 5 May 2020
St Albans Cathedral, Hertfordshire
Fifty (50!) days of self-isolation lockdown. I’m sure we can all relate to this mediaeval graffito of a cat licking its own butt…
Day 49: Monday 4 May 2020
Thornton Abbey, Lincolnshire
I restarted work on my PhD thesis on Tattershall Castle today. This led me to think about vast brick buildings in Lincolnshire for #VirtualSiteVisit Thornton Abbey really is the grand-daddy of the lot. Built during the 1380s (with early sixteenth century additions) this was a real power statement intended to display the prestige of the abbots who used the first floor as an audience chamber. The use of brickwork was unusual at this point in time and it was originally rendered over to look like stone. This would have matched the turrets and niches which still contain mediaeval sculptures of saints including the Virgin Mary, St John the Baptist and St Augustine.
Day 48: Sunday 3 May 2020
The Almonry Museum, Evesham, Worcestershire
One of the quirkiest small museums in the country for this Sunday’s #VirtualSiteVisit The Almonry is a fourteenth century limestone and timber-framed building from which charity was dispensed from the third largest monastery in the country. After the Dissolution it became home to the last abbot, probably saving it from destruction, but since then it has been a pub, tea room and private home before opening to the public in 1957.
Day 47: Saturday 2 May 2020
Oxnead Hall, Norfolk
Working on edits of some drawings of another Norfolk building today (Bacon’s House in Norwich – we’ve already had it as a #VirtualSiteVisit ) which reminded me of an intriguing trip to Oxnead last year. A really complicated structural history – with a huge portion of the house no longer standing only making interpretation even more difficult. The property has recently been subject to a major reappraisal by me owd mucker Matthew Champion. The range in this picture is possibly part of an early-mid sixteenth century build for the Paston family.
Day 46: Friday 1 May 2020
Old Net Loft, Polperro, Cormwall
Sited precariously on a rocky promontory on the edge of Polperro Harbour, today’s #VirtualSiteVisit is one of the National Trust’s more unusual acquisitions. Built in the early nineteenth century on the site of a much older, fourteenth century chapel, the Old Net Loft was originally used for boat building and repairs to fishermen’s nets. Today the building has yet to find a current use, but was fully conserved in 2015-16.
Day 45: Thursday 30 April 2020
Fotheringhay, Northamptonshire
A quiet, sleepy and unassuming village in rural Northamptonshire that is imbued with such BIG history for today’s #VirtualSiteVisit. The Norman motte and bailey castle was the birthplace of Richard III and the site of execution or Mary, Queen of Scots. Meanwhile, the collegiate church in the background is the burial site of Edward of Norwich, killed at the battle of Agincourt and Richard Plantagenet, Duke of York, who vied for the throne during the Wars of the Roses… but also lost his life in battle at Wakefield.
Day 44: Wednesday 29 April 2020
Old Wardour Castle, near Tisbury, Wiltshire
Easily one of my favourite PhD research site visits was the tower-house at Old Wardour in September 2018. I was reminded of it this afternoon whilst putting in a quote for a post-lockdown project in Wiltshire, so it has now become a #VirtualSiteVisit Originally built in the 1390s for John, 5th Lord Lovell, this incredibly innovative building was later given a makeover by that titan of Elizabethan architecture – Robert Smythson. After partial-destruction during the English Revolution, Henry, 8th Lord Arundell had the site transformed by designer Richard Woods into a idiosyncratic Picturesque landscape.
Day 43: Tuesday 28 April
Green’s Mill, Sneinton, Nottinghamshire
Been writing a lecture today on researching local history online, which I’m been kindly commissioned to do by my trade union Prospect. Given that I’m using my hometown as a case study I figured that our most famous landmark should be the #VirtualSiteVisit Built c1807 Green’s Mill operated until 1860 and will be forever associated with the physicist George Green (he created the first mathematical theory of electricity and magnetism). Sadly the building partially burned down in 1947 but was reopened as a museum and working flour mill in 1986.
Day 42: Monday 27 April 2020
St Bertram’s Well, Illam, Staffordshire
Sticking with north Staffordshire for a second day of #VirtualSiteVisit (stop judging me – I grew up in this area!). A natural spring in the Manifold Valley which has close associations with the eighth century Saint Bertram (Beorhthelm) – his fourteenth century shrine still survives in the adjacent church of the Holy Cross. In the mid-nineteenth century the industrialist Jesse Watts-Russell rebuilt Illam Hall and incorporated the well into his Picturesque-style parkland which subtly framed awe-inspiring views of the natural landscape.
Day 41: Sunday 26 April 2020
Lud’s Church, Staffordshire
An altogether different church to #VirtualSiteVisit this Sunday – Lud’s Church, a natural chasm in the millstone grit of the Staffordshire Moorlands. Reputed to have been a secret meeting place for heretical Lollards in the fifteenth century this hidden beauty spot is perhaps most famous for its literary connections. The anonymous author of the late fourteenth century poem Sir Gawain and the Green Knight included much of the north Staffordshire and south Cheshire dialect in the verses (almost certainly a local lad) and the descriptions of the Chapel of the Green Knight bear a strong resemblence to this mysterious spot high on the hill above Gradbach.
Day 40: Saturday 25 April 2020
St Michael, Laxton, Nottinghamshire
40 days and 40 nights since we started lockdown in Sneinton – sounds a bit Biblical doesn’t it!? That said, Jesus allegedly went OUT into the desert where he was tempted by the Devil. Meanwhile we’re all trapped INSIDE with our own demons 😉 Anyway, for #VirtualSiteVisit here is a charming little devil from the fifteenth century rood screen at Laxton – a church that is absolutely full of demonic carvings.
Day 39: Friday 4 April 2020
The Bailhouse, Lincoln
This #VirtualSiteVisit is to a hotel that we have used many times over the years. It lies on Bailgate – right in the heart of Lincoln’s historic core. From the outside it looks like a fairly regular Georgian building. Inside though, is a whole world of excitement for the buildings archaeologist with a penchent for mediaeval timber-framing. Lurking within is this spectacular mid-14th century crown post roof of a former open hall. Only managed to snag the room with this in it once. Probably for the best as I kept knocking my head on that arch brace…
Day 38: Thursday 23 April 2020 (St George’s Day)
Tattershall Castle, Lincolnshire (Again. Its the subject of my PhD – don’t judge me!)
Our national saint’s day is a bit of a puzzle for #VirtualSiteVisit The English revere a Near Eastern soldier (that conceivably never existed) who fought for the Roman Empire until they persecuted him for his belief in a Jewish cult. The story was brought back to these shores by ex-Viking Norman-French overlords in order to replace an indigenous Anglo-Saxon saint (Edward the Confessor) and used the pre-existing cult of St Michael (pictured) to graft on a story about him killing a dragon.
Day 37: Wednesday 22 April 2020
Holme Pierrepont Hall, Nottinghamshire
Lying just 3 miles from where I type this, Holme Pierrepont Hall is one of Nottinghamshire’s most intriguing buildings. The gatehouse range is a superbly preserved late mediaeval survival that was probably built for Yorkist veteran Sir Henry Pierrepont in the dying days of the fifteenth century. He survived both Towton and Bosworth – no mean achievement. The timber-framed roof structure within is arguably the finest in Nottinghamshire from the period…. can you tell that I am itching to get back into this amazing site!?
Day 36: Tuesday 21 April 2020
Newark Torc, Nottinghamshire
Not a site as such, but an artefact, for today’s #VirtualSiteVisit – and I am literally not allowed to tell you exactly where the Newark Torc was discovered by a metal detectorist in 2005 either! Suffice to say that this late Iron Age torc caused quite a stir when it was found and subsequent excavations (involving yours truly) revealed that it had been buried close to a ploughed out ring-ditch of indeterminate age. Recently it has even been proposed that the golden neck ornament may even have been deposited by marauding ninth century Vikings after being looted from elsewhere. Anyway, a great find and one that was originally on display at the British Museum before finally ending up at the National Civil War Museum – close to where it was discovered in Newark.
Day 35: Monday 20 April 2020
Tewkesbury Abbey, Gloucestersire
Visited Tewkesbury several years ago in relation to my fairly long-lived obsession with the Wars of the Roses. The battle fought here in 1471, between the Yorkists and Lancastrians, was fairly pivotal. The house of Lancaster were soundly thrashed and Henry VI’s only son and heir – Prince Edward – was killed in action. Many of his supporters rushed into the nearby abbey in the hope of claiming sanctuary. The Yorkists were in no mood for mercy and the Lancastrians were forcibly removed and executed. After the battle, Edward was buried in the centre of the abbey choir and the Yorkists remodelled the fourteenth century vaulting to include their own personal badge of the sun-in-splendour directly over the defeated prince’s tomb.
Day 34: Sunday 19 April 2020
Southwell Minster Churchyard, Nottinghamshire
I’m sure we can all get behind this sentiment from 400 years ago right? #VirtualSiteVisit
Day 33: Saturday 18 April 2020
St James’s Street, Westminster, Greater London
Spent the day working on a report for a property in St James’s . Took me right back to the first building that I ever worked on in London for our #VirtualSiteVisit The area has always been very exclusive. Initially, the royal palace at the bottom of the street was laid out on land seized by Henry VIII from what had been a Leper Hospital. Subsequently, the streets and square were laid out in the late seventeenth century by property speculator Henry Jermyn, 2nd Earl of St Albans. After that it saw a rash of elite clubs such as White’s and Boodle’s, many of which are still open to this day.
Day 32: Friday 17 April 2020
Old Engineering Building, University of Nottingham
A whole month gone since we started #VirtualSiteVisit … What an odd time it has been! Today I had to head over to the health centre at the University of Nottingham. So after I took the opportunity to take a short walk and found myself on all that remains of the Old Engineering Building. Originally built as the contractor’s offices during the 1920s construction of the nearby Trent Building, these steps must be known to many generations as those which once led into the University Museum, Trent & Peak Archaeology and the Department of Classics and Archaeology. Fortunately all are still going – just in separate buildings these days.
Day 31: Thursday 16 April 2020
St Wystan’s, Repton, Derbyshire
This is a deeply atmospheric #VirtualSiteVisit – a place where the tangibility of history really comes close to the surface and causes genuine shivers. The ninth century crypt of the kings of Mercia and former shrine to St Wystan lies beneath the east end of the parish church at Repton in Derbyshire. The building was later used as a winter fort by the Viking army in 873 and has been included in a lot of really significant archaeological projects for many decades. I was fortunate enough to be able to spend part of an afternoon completely alone down here last year. Not the first time that I have been to this site, but certainly the most memorable.
Day 30: Wednesday 15 April 2020
Red Tower, York, North Yorkshire
I had an utterly miserable day at work yesterday and missed #VirtualSiteVisit as a result. To try and put this into perspective, whilst I play catch up, I’m recalling the bad day suffered at the Red Tower by the bricklayer John Patrik in 1491 who was murdered by stonemasons – William Hindley and Christopher Homer – jealous that the tilers guild got the contract to build a new tower on York’s famous city walls. So powerful were the masons that they were acquited of the killing and the tilers were never invited to build any more of the walls. Truly a bad day.
Day Twenty-nine: Tuesday 14 April 2020
Bramall Hall, Stockport, Greater Manchester
When I’m working in the office I tend to listen to music (I like both kinds – rock and roll). And I really mean listen – I’ll have the same album on repeat constantly. Today I’ve been looping numbers by Rich Ragany and the Digressions and Ryan Hamilton and the Harlequin Ghosts for around nine hours – totally getting lost in the tracks. So the #VirtualSiteVisit really had to represent the history of music. Here is an incredibly rare survival – two courtly musicians painted onto the walls of the solar of Bramall Hall sometime in the 1530s.
Day Twenty-eight: Monday 13 April 2020
Avebury, Wiltshire
Happy St Lubbock’s Day! Not heard of John Lubbock? Shame on you! Sir John Lubbock (1834-1913) was an MP, banker, archaeologist, scientist (he was Charles Darwin’s best friend) and social reformer. One of his most long-lasting achievements was the 1871 introduction of the first four Bank Holidays into the British calendar – including Easter Monday. This led to high praise in the press for having: “added – substantially added – to the sum of human happiness, and has carried rays of hope and joy into humble households so great as to rank him high as a public benefactor.”

His altruistic intention was that people could use the paid time off to improve their knowledge of science and heritage at places such as today’s #VirtualSiteVisit – the prehistoric henge monument at Avebury (Picture Source: Historic England). Lubbock himself bought part of the site to protect it from development and introduced the 1882 Protection of Ancient Monuments Act to discourage damage to prehistoric remains. Definitely one of my greatest archaeological heroes!
Day Twenty-seven: Sunday 12 April 2020
Belas Knap, Gloucestershire
High on a hill in the Cotswolds lies the extraordinary Neolithic long barrow (dating to c 3000BC) known as Belas Knap. For an Easter Sunday #VirtualSiteVisit this prehistoric funerary monument with its false portal, perhaps to deter grave robbers or act as a spirit door, seemed apt. The actual burial chambers are located in the sides of the mound and contained the remains of at least 31 individuals.
Day Twenty-six: Saturday 11 April 2020
St Mary Magdalen, Newarok-on-Trent, Nottinghamshire
I was originally going to post about a big chantry tomb of the mediaeval elites for #VirtualSiteVisit on Easter Saturday. Then I was reminded that for most people even a tombstone was unaffordable until relatively recently. So instead we have a really touching memorial to John Glover, who probably died in the sixteenth or seventeenth century (judging by the script), and was presumably memorialised by a loved one with a graffiti inscription in the retro-choir of Newark’s St Mary Magdalen.
Day Twenty-five: Friday 10 April 2020
Leiston Abbey, Suffolk
Between the car park and the ruins of the mediaeval abbey is his fantastic crucifix which seemed perfect for a #VirtualSiteVisit on Good Friday. The abbey was originally founded c1183 at a marshland site which was repeatedly flooded until it was moved wholesale to the present location in 1363. Today the ruins are owned by English Heritage but are managed by the Pro Corda Trust who have a facility on site to train chamber musicians.
Day Twenty-four: Thursday 9 April 2020
Haddon Hall, Derbyshire
With the long Easter weekend upon us, I’m going to try and make #VirtualSiteVisit link up to each day of the religious festival. As today is Maundy Thursday – the time of the Last Supper – I’m taking us to the stunning mid-fourteenth century dining hall at Haddon in the Peak District. Both the high table and adjacent bench date to c 1400 and were probably purpose built for that stone dais. Whilst this is a remarkable survival, I gotta say that my favourite thing about Haddon Hall is that it was a major filming location for The Princess Bride 🙂
Day Twenty-three: Wednesday 8 April 2020
All Saints, Oakham, Rutland
Feeling rather grimly fiendish today (yes, I am a fan of The Damned) – a real sense of black humour all around. So for today’s #VirtualSiteVisit I’d like to take us to the fourteenth century carvings in the nave at Oakham. In particular, these two characters who can be found laughing despite being consigned to the flames of Hell. The chap on the left is technically known as a ‘mouth-puller’ and is probably a visual reference to Isiah 57:3-5 “Against whom make ye a wide mouth, and draw out the tongue? Are ye not children of transgression, a seed of falsehood.”
Day Twenty-two: Tuesday 7 April 2020
St Peter’s, Sibthorpe, Nottinghamshire
Have had to take a much needed self-care day. Trying to work every moment to ensure that I actually get paid in the face of zero government help just isn’t sustainable. Fondly recalling these two sleeping guards on the fourteenth century Easter Sepulchre at Sibthorpe. So today’s #VirtualSiteVisit is a tribute to all those that just need a bloody good rest right now!
Day Twenty-One: Monday 6 April 2020
Guy’s Tower, Warwick Castle
Just finishing up a heritage project in Warwickshire today, which led me to recollect for #VirtualSiteSite that the first professional work I did in the county was at none other than Warwick Castle! However, long before that – when I was a very young kid – I had the Ladybird Books biography of Richard Neville, known to history as Warwick the Kingmaker. My parents took me on a trip to see Warwick Castle off the back of that. I seem to recall being a tad obsessed with mid-fourteenth century Guy’s Tower. Although I probably didn’t appreciate that it was built long before the Kingmaker was alive, it was a real thrill to be charging around with my plastic sword and shield in a place where he might have trodden…

P.S. In more recent times, I have researched the life of Richard Neville more closely and have come to the conclusion that he was a unpleasantly disagreeable individual- beware who your boyhood heroes are, kids!
Day Twenty: Sunday 5 April 2020
St George’s Island (formerly St Michael’s Island), Looe, Cornwall
Another religious site linked to isolation from the world for this Sunday’s #VirtualSiteVisit This time it is the breathtaking St George’s Island off the coast of Looe in Cornwall. We took a boat trip over here in the summer of 2017 and learned all the twin chapels built either side of the sea channel (in the foreground of the picture and on the island itself) by monks from Glastonbury Abbey in the 1190s. Today the island is managed by Cornwall Wildlife Trust.
Day Nineteen: Saturday 4 April 2020
Perry Mill, Redditch, Worcestershire (now at Avoncroft Museum of Historic Buildings)
I’ve been writing a report on a West Midlands late eighteenth or earlier nineteenth century agricultural building today. Can’t share that due to client confidentiality, but it did put me in mind of this amazing contemporary perry mill which I photographed last summer during a trip to Avoncroft. This #VirtualSiteVisit fits in quite nicely with Saturday night as well – definitely time for some well-earned booze…
Day Eighteen: Friday 4 April 2020
Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem / Nottingham Castle
I’ve just finished doing a phone interview with the BBC about the history of Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem in Nottingham. Now I am moving on to help a pal out with his daughter’s homework on castles. Seemed like only the one choice for #VirtualSiteVisit but I thought that I’d use a historic image from around 1900 when the little known Gate Hangs Well pub was still standing adjacent. There’s a lot of guff talked about which is the oldest pub in Nottingham. It’s possible that the seven manmade caves at the Trip were used as the mediaeval castle’s brewhouse, but the timber-framed building is late seventeenth century. The Salutation and Bell have sixteenth and fiftenth century (respectively) fabric in situ. The date of 1189AD painted on the side of the Trip is entirely arbitrary.
Picture Source: Nottinghamshire History
Day Seventeen: Thursday 2 April 2020
Tattershall Castle, Lincolnshire
Slightly surprised that it has taken so long to get around to posting Tattershall for a #VirtualSiteVisit given that it is the subject of my (so very nearly complete) PhD thesis! However, today I have just handed over the final edits of a new guidebook on the site to the National Trust. The castle is a massively important building for many reasons, but the focus of the new book will be the construction of an innovative power house for Ralph Lord Cromwell in the fifteenth century, coupled with the story of Lord Curzon’s dramatic acquisition of the site and the ensuing conservation project by architect William Weir in the 1910’s.
Day Sixteen: Wednesday 1 April 2020
27-28 Esplanade, St Helier, Jersey
We had a big grocery delivery this morning and the anxieties around obtaining food put me in mind of the former Co-Operative Wholesale Society potato warehouse on the Isle of Jersey for our #VirtualSiteVisit. Initially, this historic building survey was not the most exciting or glamorous commission. However, it turned out that the building (which began life in the 1890s as a saw mill) had been the focus of incredible conflict in 1944-5 between the Bailiff of Jersey, Alexander Coutanche, and the occupying Third Reich Platzkommandant Major Heider. German forces had requisitioned the warehouse to feed their troops, cut off after the D-Day landings, at the expense of the local population’s rations. Odd to think that such an unremarkable building created such fierce wartime tensions.
Day Fifteen: Tuesday 31 March 2020
Rollright Stones, Little Rollright, Oxfordshire
I woke up last night at 4.30am with a burning question for my wife: “Of all the sites we have visited, what have been your favourites that I can post for #VirtualSiteVisit ?” (Welcome to the semi-conscious mind of the average archaeologist.) Her response was the smaller, out of the way prehistoric sites like Nine Stones Close, Dorset; Doll Tor, Derbyshire or Rollright Stones, Oxfordshire (AKA how to kick a mediaevalist when he is down). After rummaging in my photo archives I realised that I now only have shots of Rollright – England’s most easterly surviving stone circle. Dating to the Late Neolithic or Early Bronze Age (c 2000 BC) many legends are attached to the stones – most famously that it is impossible to count them. There are 77 stones. English Heritage even published that in the 80s (Lambrick 1988, 41-2).
Day Fourteen: Monday 30 March 2020
Oxburgh Hall, Norfolk
Spirits are a little low today, here in Nottingham, so it was great to receive a jolly email from the National Trust curator at Oxburgh Hall to discuss similarities between this late fifteenth century brick house and Tattershall Castle (the subject of my PhD research). Both buildings have seriously impressive staircases with countersunk handrails, but the cut-brick vaulting at Oxburgh is just something else to behold! #VirtualSiteVisit
Day Thirteen: Sunday 29 March 2020
Salisbury Cathedral, Wiltshire
Described by my friend Steve Dunn as: “The finest sight in England” (as head guide there he rather has to say that!), the nave of Salisbury Cathedral seems an appropriate #VirtualSiteVisit for a Sunday. Built of contrasting dark Purbeck and light Chilmark limestones the main body of the cathedral was completed in a single construction campaign between 1220 and 1258. I’ve never worked on the cathedral itself, although I have given a lecture at the museum in the surrounding Close.
Day Twelve: Saturday 28 March 2020
Royal London Hospital, Whitechapel, London
There was very little opportunity to take an attractive photograph of today’s #VirtualSiteVisit – the East Wing of the Royal London Hospital. However, it was a really important building which is reflective of my thoughts today on the generosity of strangers and the importance of healthcare. This is the location where Joseph Merrick (popularly known as the Elephant Man) spent the last four years of his life – 1886-90 – after Frederick Treves and Francis Carr Gomm’s efforts finally found a safe home where he could receive the treatment he needed. I led the historic building recording here in 2012 and was forever touched by their story. 
Day Eleven: Friday 27 March 2020
Cork Stone, Stanton Moor, Derbyshire
After waking up to the news that I am not eligible for self-employed government financial assistance (for various frustrating reasons), I got thinking about the vulnerability of workers in the past. As a former stonemason my mind was drawn to the quarriers who worked out the sandstone on our #VirtualSiteVisit to Stanton Moor. The quarry behind the natural wind-eroded pillar known as the Cork Stone was worked between 1879 and 1897.
Day Ten: Thursday 26 March 2020
Bacon’s House, Norwich, Norfolk
Today I am bringing us to mediaeval Norwich for #VirtualSiteVisit as I’ve spent the day preparing floor plans of Bacon’s House for a forthcoming publication by Dr Chris King of the University of Nottingham. The building has a complex archaeology starting in the fifteenth century with sixteenth and seventeenth century additions/remodelling. Named after Henry Bacon, twice mayor of Norwich, whose merchant’s mark appears over one of the doorways to the house.
Day Nine: Wednesday 25 March 2020
Fox Wood, Woodborough, Nottinghamshire
Using our government-sanctioned daily walking allowance we (very safely) headed to Fox Wood – Nottinghamshire’s only genuine Iron Age hillfor – to bring today’s #VirtualSiteVisit. I worked as a supervisor on the 2005 community excavation of the truncated ditches extending out from the surviving woodland in the background of this picture (right of the tree). A footpath now runs along the ridge adjacent to the enclosure and marks the ancient parish boundary between Woodborough and Calverton – this tree sits on the summit of that hill.
Day Eight: Tuesday 24 March 2020
Sackville House, East Grinstead, East Sussex
It’s my birthday today (42) and the #VirtualSiteVisit is the location of a three day residential party held for my 40th. Sackville House is an incredibly well-preserved early sixteenth century town house which is now let out by the Landmark Trust. Really special place to go into lockdown revels with close friends!
Day Seven: Monday 23 March 2020
Hermit’s Cave, Dale Abbey, Derbyshire
With us all self-isolating it led me to consider hermits who voluntarily chose to shield themselves from mediaeval society. Immediately decided that Dale Abbey had to be the #VirtialSiteVisit – such an atmospheric site. Even though it’s real close to major urban centres, dropping down into this secluded valley always feels like entering another world. Which is pretty much what must have attracted the twelfth century hermit and the monks that later followed his example.
Day Six: Sunday 22 March 2020
Moor Pond Wood, Papplewick, Nottinghamshire
Been out for a walk out in the countryside today and returned to Moor Pond Wood for the first time in about 15 years for our #VirtualSiteVisit Worked here as a community archaeologist over about 18 months helping the local community to understand the remains of George Robinson’s innovative, eighteenth century, water management systems which powered cotton mills on the River Leen.
Day Five: Saturday 21 March 2020
Chalgrove Manor, Oxfordshire
Been working on a timber-framed house in the midlands today. Was transported back to a week long residential course many years ago run by English Heritage at Oxford University. So today’s #VirtualSiteVisit is Chalgrove Manor – the late mediaeval building that we used as a case study on that course. Its a fairly well-known building that has appeared in several episodes of Midsomer Murders, including the one where actor Oliver Ford-Davies gets improbably trebuchet-ed to death with wine bottles!
Day Four: Friday 20 March 2020
Stopham Bridge, Pulborough, West Sussex
It’s homebrewing day here at our house in Sneinton (I know right – who knew that archaeologists had a reputation for loving beer!?)… which got me thinking about great historic sites where you can have a pint. Gotta be the Grade I Listed, late mediaeval, Stopham Bridge for today’s #VirtualSiteVisit The adjacent pub (out of shot) is the White Hart, also a listed building, does ruddy good booze!
Day Three: Thursday 19 March 2020
St Mary, Halford, Warwickshire
It’s those incredibly unexpected treasures that I’m missing today during my #VirtualSiteVisit Whilst out doing a site visit for a client on a fairly regular post-mediaeval agricultural building (which I am drawing up today) I called in at the local church of St Mary, Halford, Warwickshire… only for my jaw to hit the ground at this staggering angel carved c 1125-30 and described by Pevsner as ‘the best piece of Norman sculpture in the county’. Absolutely love moments like that. 
Day Two: Wednesday 18 March 2020
Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent
After yesterday’s post about Sudeley Castle, I’m gonna try and do a #VirtualSiteVisit every day that we are in lockdown. Today I’ve been thinking and reading about my dearly beloved Knole. Easily my favourite site that I have ever worked on. Also, without question, the most complicated buildings archaeology of them all. So much so that my mind still shies away from it – so lets look at the deer herd instead…. 
Day One: Tuesday 17 March 2020
Sudeley Castle, Gloucestershire
If I’m forced to stay home then I’ll damned well keep my brain exercised with a #VirtualSiteVisit Been trying to work out if this little lot was actually built for the lad that would become Richard III or not. Whilst the jury is out, I’m edging towards a “possibly maybe”…

Tattershall Castle: Building a History

by James Wright FSA

Introduction

In 2016 the Arts and Humanities Research Council funded a collaborative doctoral award researching Tattershall Castle, Lincolnshire, which has been run by the University of Nottingham and the site’s landowners – the National Trust. The castle doubled its visitor numbers to 59, 741 between 2008 and 2018 (Visit England 2018) and a reassessment of the site is anticipated to underpin future strategic decisions on presentation of the site to the public. Although Tattershall has featured widely in castle studies (Goodall 2011, 354-6; Emery 2000, 308-16; Johnson 2002, 55-62), with particular regard to great houses in the late mediaeval period, there has been no substantive new research on the site since the 1920s (Curzon & Tipping 1929). Consequently, a need arose to reconsider the castle using the multidisciplinary approach of modern buildings archaeology.

Once the completed thesis is available online a link will be placed to it on this webpage.

Tattershall Castle

The castle is located in a remote area of Lincolnshire, approximately 21 miles south-east of Lincoln and 15 miles north-west of Boston. In the mediaeval period the site was well-connected to the fenland and coastal environments via the River Witham. A stone polygonal enclosure castle, studded with round towers, was first built for the regionally important baron, Robert de Tateshale, in the 1230s (Goodall 2011, 183). The model for this building is likely to have been at Bolingbroke, approximately 10 miles to the north-east, which was built in the 1220s for Earl Ranulph de Blondeville – itself inspired by innovative architecture emanating from France and the Holy Land (Soden 2009, 124-5).

Thirteenth century tower foundations.

Tattershall passed through the Driby and Bernack families until it was inherited, in 1419, by Ralph 3rd Lord Cromwell. The Cromwells were socially rising landowners at a time of great political turbulence initially caused by the minority of Henry VI and, later, his inability to establish strong governance (Johnson 2019, 555-9). Cromwell was appointed as Lord Treasurer of England, in 1433, and by the following year had begun an ambitious programme of remodelling at Tattershall which lasted until c 1450 (Simpson 1960).

Geometry underlying the ground floor of the Great Tower

The building accounts of the great brick and stone castle partially survive and give a vibrant impression of the construction process (Simpson 1960). Building materials were brought in, by land and river, from Yorkshire, Leicestershire and Lincolnshire to be worked by labourers and craftsmen including dikers, masons, carpenters, plumbers and smiths. Whilst the name of the master mason is unknown, Cromwell’s principle brickmaker, Baldwin Docheman, was probably a continental specialist brought over to work the clay on nearby Edlington Moor (Simpson 1960, 46, 56, 73). By 1446 the project was well-advanced and work was underway on the great tower. Analysis of the underlying geometry has revealed that the tower’s ground plan was based on a 3 x 4 grid of 20 foot (approximately 6.09m) squares and that the principle western elevation conformed to the common mediaeval proportional ratio of 1:1.73 (Hislop 2012, 19-20).

Cromwell’s builders added two L-shaped wards to the older enclosure complete with brick moat revetments. Each of the three wards had its own gatehouse which allowed a processional access through the castle similar to those at Caister and Kenilworth (Johnson 2002, 50-1; Creighton 2002 76). The Outer and Middle Ward contained well-appointed lodging ranges including the “Guardhouse” – a two-storey retainers lodging with garderobes and fireplaces. The floor and roof structure were recently found to be constructed from timbers felled between 1446 and 1451 (Robert Howard, Nottingham Tree-ring Dating Laboratory, pers. comm. 07/2/2017).

Phased plan of Tattershall Castle

Antiquarian illustrations (Society of Antiquaries) and archaeological excavations (Curzon & Tipping 1929, 169-173) have revealed that the Inner Ward once contained a chapel, great hall, two-storey pentice, services, solar, and gatehouses which permitted access to gardens to the south and services to the west. The castle is dominated by the 33.5 metre high great tower which plunges directly into the moat on three sides. The rectangular structure has projecting octagonal corner turrets, which rise above the parapet and were once crowned with lead spirelets (Emery 2000, 309-10). Brick diaperwork helps to offset the rather austere window tracery and a symmetrical show-front is presented on the west elevation. The tower has a unique double-height parapet with a machicolated and arcaded gallery supporting a wall walk complete with heated rooms in the turrets.

Double-height arcaded parapet of the great tower.

The building is accessed from the east via three ground floor doorways. The southern door leads to a spiral stair in the south-eastern turret (with an elaborate recessed handrail carved in stone), the central to a basement and northern to the ground floor chamber. Blocked doors, wall scars and beam slots (associated with a former two-storey pentice that lay beyond the demolished great hall) indicate that more private access was once possible from the former solar block.

East elevation of the great tower.

Internally, the tower is deceptively simple in layout. It consists of a five storey stack of large central chambers with intramural passages to the east and chambers in three of the turrets. Each of the storeys above grew in status vertically, becoming steadily larger and more lavish, in a fashion memorably described by John Goodall (2011, 354) as ‘gathering magnificence’:

  • Basement: Storage
  • Ground floor: Lesser household hall
  • First floor: Private dining hall
  • Second floor: Great chamber accessed via an elaborately vaulted processional corridor and heated anteroom
  • Third floor: Bedchamber
Floor plans of the great tower of Tattershall Castle

All four principle chambers have garderobes and finely sculpted chimneypieces; whilst the first, second and third floors also have corbels at their high ends which once supported tester frames.

The castle was carefully designed to act as a theatrical backdrop to symbolise the prestige of its patron. Everything about the site demanded respect and awe from visitors and occupants alike. From the circuitous access to the overpowering dominance of the great tower, Tattershall was intended to demonstrate the status of its lord.

A Landscape of Lordship

Beyond the castle gates, Cromwell imposed his power on a wide landscape of lordship. This included a large moated enclosure containing gardens, warrens, fishponds and a mill, alongside the foundation of a collegiate church, school and almshouses provided for in his will. The settlement of Tattershall was reorganised as a proto-town with a substantial marketplace with a stone cross symbolic of Cromwell’s economic power. Beyond this, part of Tattershall Chase was emparked and provided with hunting lodges at Woodhall Spa and Whitwell (Simpson 1960, xiii-xv).

Holy Trinity collegiate church and the village of Tattershall.

By the mid-1440s Cromwell received vast incomes from over 140 estates (Friedrichs 1988, 217) and had commissioned a substantial new house at South Wingfield (Derbyshire) alongside works to existing manor houses at Collyweston (Northamptonshire), Lambley (Nottinghamshire) and Depham (Middlesex). These lavish building projects, conducted simultaneously with Tattershall, led Anthony Emery (2000, 313) to characterise Cromwell as demonstrating ‘the seeds of megalomania’. This architectural dominance created a unified brand across landscapes that repeatedly emphasised his status in society.

Ralph Cromwell

Ralph Cromwell was born in 1393 into a family of supporters of Henry of Bolingbroke (later Henry IV). By 1407 he had been placed in the household of Thomas, duke of Clarence, the younger son of the king. He was present on Henry V’s campaign of 1415, was probably knighted at Azincourt and served during the later invasion of Normandy. He distinguished himself as an able administrator and diplomat and, by 1420, had caught the attention of the king who entrusted him as a negotiator at the treaty of Troyes. By 1423 Cromwell was named royal councillor and ten years later he was appointed as Lord Treasurer of England – a post that he held until 1443 (Friedrichs 1988, 208, 212).

Tomb brass of Ralph Cromwell and Margaret Deincourt, Holy Trinity Tattershall. Picture Source: National Trust.

Cromwell was typical of a group of rising men, active in France, who received royal patronage and invested their wealth in buildings which symbolised and projected their status in society. However, as a new man, he lacked the influence of higher-ranking members on the council such as the rivals Humfrey, duke of Gloucester and Henry Beaufort, bishop of Winchester. Cromwell gravitated towards Beaufort’s circle and was well-rewarded when the latter was ascendant, but that patronage was regularly cut when Gloucester held the upper hand (Friedrichs 1988, 209-12).

The construction of Tattershall Castle began soon after Cromwell’s appointment as Lord Treasurer. It featured repeated lordly symbols such as clustered towers, crenellations, machicolations, prominent chimneys, brick vaults and armorials. Even the choice of the newly fashionable brick as a building material served such purposes – diaperwork patterns of a heraldic shield, Calvary cross and Marian imagery collectively demonstrated the societal demand to be seen as a pious lord (Creighton 2002, 110).

Internally, the architectural detail of the great tower was also geared towards an exposition of how Cromwell wished the world to see him. In particular, the elaborately carved chimneypieces and vaulting bosses are resplendent with family armorials which relate Cromwell’s, often distant, lineage. Significantly, no attempt was made to link himself with the heraldry of contemporary political patrons – potentially due to the uncertainty of his shifting allegiances. Intermingled with the armorials are more statements of lordly piety including carvings relating to the battle between good and evil – St Michael and the dragon and Samson and the lion. Most revealing of all are the repeated carvings of the Treasurer’s purse, signifying the source of wealth and power, which is often found in association with a rebus of the Gromwell plant and Cromwell’s curious motto: ‘Nay je droit’ (Have I not the right?).

Carved chimneypiece in the first floor chamber of the great tower.

This motto is both truculent and anxious at the same time. It reveals a tension in Cromwell’s architecture which may be symptomatic of his personal characteristics. He was a newly made man that had experienced a meteoric rise, but was still subordinate to more powerful men.  We might consider the repeated heraldic devices as Cromwell over-emphasising the antiquity of his lineage to bolster his position. This was further supported by the repeated carvings of purse rebus and motto which hint at a prickly and jealous pride that was exposed in his political actions.

Cromwell’s latter years were mired in partisan disputes which often spilled over into open hostilities. He resigned the post of Treasurer in 1443 and, after the death of Beaufort in 1447, struggled to maintain a strong profile on the council in the face of the dukes of Suffolk and Somerset. He was beset by the murderous schemes of his neighbour, William Tailboys, and the equally volatile duke of Exeter (Friedrichs 1988, 221-3). As Henry VI slipped into catatonic stupor in 1453 and the country slid towards civil war, Cromwell found himself politically isolated and began to drift into the orbit of the Yorkist faction. He arranged the marriages of his heiresses, Joan and Maud Stanhope, to relatives of the earl of Warwick and duke of York in an attempt to seal new alliances. However, when war broke out in 1455, Cromwell failed to arrive at the battle of St Albans (whether by fate or design) and was vilified in person by Warwick as a primary instigator of the Wars of the Roses.

Cromwell died in January 1456 at Wingfield Manor (Friedrichs 1988, 224-6). He had been a diligent and tenacious member of the council and had weathered the aggressive faction-fighting which marred the middle years of the fifteenth century.

Inspirations and Influences

The design of Tattershall owes a debt to both contemporary European castles and to older English examples. The use of brick became fashionable in eastern England from the late fourteenth century, for example at Thornton Abbey and Boston Guildhall in Lincolnshire, primarily as a result of strong trading connections with the Hanseatic League (Campbell 2003, 103). Sites such as Malbork in Poland and Schloss Kempen in the Lower Rhineland had an electrifying effect on English builders through the use of wide moats, diapered brickwork with stone detailing and a resurgence of the great tower as an architectural focus (Goodall 2011, 356; Simpson 1960, xxiv). The latter was also current in late mediaeval France, where Cromwell’s own experience of castles such as Vincennes may have directly influenced the design of Tattershall (Emery 2016, 252, 330). Finally, Tattershall looked back to Norman great towers including Castle Rising, Dover and Newcastle filtered through later developments at Nunney, Stafford and Wardour (Goodall 2011, 183).

Thornton Abbey Gatehouse, Lincolnshire.

Tattershall subsequently had a remarkable effect on English architecture for over a century. The construction of brick and stone great towers with projecting turrets and featuring recessed stair handrails, false machicolations and diaperwork became essential motifs in elite building. Within Cromwell’s own lifetime members of the Lincolnshire gentry commissioned structures influenced by Tattershall, including the Hussey Tower (Boston) and Ayscoughfee Hall (Spalding). The style was also advanced by his peers at Herstmonceux Castle (East Sussex), Rye House (Hertfordshire) and Middleton Towers (Norfolk). In the late fifteenth century a number of bishop’s houses showed a clear line of thought back to Tattershall, in particular those built by the mason John Cowper for William Waynflete, executor of Cromwell’s will, at Esher and Farnham (Surrey). Other stark examples of the style include Buckden (Cambridgeshire), Oxburgh (Norfolk) and Kirby Muxloe (Leicestershire). During the Tudor period Tattershall’s legacy was cemented at Holme Pierrepont (Nottinghamshire), Layer Marner (Essex) and Hampton Court (Surrey); with its reach even lasting into Elizabeth’s reign at Burghley (Lincolnshire) and Kenilworth (Warwickshire).

Buckden Palace, Cambridgeshire.

Post-Mediaeval Tattershall

Following Cromwell’s death, the castle passed to his nieces Maud and Joan Stanhope (and their various husbands) prior to confiscation by the crown. Tattershall was granted to Margaret Beaufort and then Charles Brandon (Curzon & Tipping 1929, 113-4, 121), with the latter possibly constructing a tiltyard in the former gardens. By the later sixteenth century the estate was purchased by Lord Clinton, whose descendants initially held the castle for Parliament during the English Civil War (Curzon & Tipping 1929, 133, 138). Although Tattershall was briefly possessed by the royalists, in 1643, the site saw little action but graffiti from the garrison can be found inscribed upon the walls of the great tower and there are impact scars from musketry on the west elevation of the collegiate church. The castle was probably slighted during 1650 on the orders of Parliament (Thompson 1987, 184).

English Civil War era graffiti on the third floor walls at Tattershall Castle.

In 1693 the castle was inherited by the Fortesque family who rented it out as a farm. Early eighteenth century illustrations by Buck and Millicent show the castle in a ruinous state (Society of Antiquaries). The great tower was used as a cattle shed and a dovecote was installed in Cromwell’s own privy chamber during this period! By the nineteenth century the floors of the tower had collapsed, the moats backfilled and much of the foundations of the castle had been robbed to feed lime kilns (Curzon & Tipping 1929, 140-1).

The castle was under threat from acquisition and wholesale removal by an American consortium in 1910, which led to an emergency purchase by Lord Curzon the following year. As a man deeply interested in the conservation of historic buildings, Curzon arranged for the excavation and consolidation of the site under advice from architect William Weir and architectural historian Alexander Hamilton Thompson. The narrowly averted threat to Tattershall led Curzon to successfully lobby Parliament for the Ancient Monuments Consolidation of Amendment Act of 1913 (Waterson 1994, 73).

Tattershall was left to the National Trust under the terms of Curzon’s will and remains in their care and open to the public to the present day.

Conclusions

Tattershall Castle stands as testament to the tremendous power and prestige of Ralph Lord Cromwell. The innovative architecture is firmly rooted in both continental and English building traditions and became the benchmark for English building for many decades to come. The messages imparted in both the overall plan and architectural details speak of a patron who was wealthy, proud and conscious of his status; however, there is also an underlying anxiety and tension inherent to the building which is reflective of a parvenu, who had reached far yet, who was still a lord of the second rank. The site has also been enormously important to the history of the conservation movement, in particular in the sensitive manner of Curzon’s restoration work and the use of the site in attaining legal protection for significant historic buildings.

Tattershall Castle and Holy Trinity, Tattershall, Lincolnshire.

Bibliography

Campbell, J. W. P., 2003 (2016 edition), Brick: A World History. Thames & Hudson. London.

Creighton, O., 2002, Castles and Landscapes. Equinox. Sheffield.

Curzon, G. & Tipping, H. A., 1929, Tattershall Castle, Lincolnshire: A Historical and Descriptive Survey. Jonathan Cape. London.

Emery, A., 2016, Seats of Power in Europe During the Hundred Years War. Oxbow. Oxford.

Emery, Anthony, 2000, Greater Medieval Houses of England and Wales Vol. 2 East Anglia, Central England and Wales. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

Friedrichs, R. L., 1988, ‘Ralph, Lord Cromwell and the Politics of Fifteenth Century England’ in Nottingham Medieval Studies Vol. 32

Goodall, J., 2011, The English Castle. Yale University Press.

Hislop, M., 2012, Medieval Masons. Shire Archaeology. Oxford.

Johnson, L., 2019, Shadow King – The Life and Death of Henry VI. Head of Zeus. London.

Johnson, M., 2002, Behind the Castle Gate. Routledge. London.

Simpson, W. D., 1960, The Building Accounts of Tattershall Castle, 1434-72. Lincoln Record Society No. 55.

Soden, I., 2009, Ranulf de Blondeville – The First English Hero. Amberley. Stroud.

Thompson, M. W., 1987, The Decline of the Castle. Cambridge University Press. Cambridge.

Waterson, M., 1994, The National Trust – The First Hundred Years. BBC / National Trust. London.

Historic Illustrations

Society of Antiquaries, Coleraine Collection of British Topography Vol. 2

Websites

Visit England: https://www.visitbritain.org/annual-survey-visits-visitor-attractions-latest-results (Accessed 17/10/2019)